On the final decrease round before top ribbing, the * at the beginning of the sentence has been omitted. Should read: Next Rnd *[K2, p2] 5 times, k1, k2tog, p2, k2, p1, p2tog, [k2, p2] 2 times; rep from * one more--72 sts rem.
Patterns purchased before 1/1/2012: Some of the asterisks referred to in pattern instructions ("rep from * to end of rnd") are missing. In every case, the asterisk should have been placed at the very beginning of the sentence. (Patterns purchased after 1/1/2012 have been corrected.)
Stitch counts for the front sections immediately after “Divide for Front & Back/Shape Armholes” are wrong, because they don’t take into account the sts already decreased by the neck shaping. Here are the correct Front stitch counts (Back stitch counts are fine): 31 (35, 40, 43, 48, 51, 56, 60). These are calculated using the row counts given in the pattern, so if you are just measuring the work in progress to decide when to begin neck and underarm shaping, these counts could be off by a stitch (shouldn’t be more than that unless your row gauge is way off).
I was thrilled when Tanis Gray emailed me two months ago, and told me that my Vine and Leaf Beret would be on the cover of the fall Vogue Knitting.
I was actually asked by Tanis to submit ideas for hat patterns for this issue, and since my favorite part of creating hat patterns is working out the crown decreases so they flow from the stitch pattern, I immediately went to my stitch dictionaries and searched for patterns that I thought would adapt nicely to decreasing rapidly-- usually for the flat part of a beret, the decreases work out to approximately 7 or 8 stitches decreased in every round (or something equivalent, i.e. twice as many stitches decreased every other round). Once again, one of my Japanese stitch dictionaries provided the inspiration; when I saw the stitch pattern I adapted for the Vine & Leaf Beret, I immediately thought of rapidly decreasing every other rep down to a single stitch, and then following with the other reps. This is another fun knit, and quick! I highly recommend it.
(If it was up to me, I probably wouldn't have chosen this yarn color. Having said that, I do like the finished product-- but given the rosy color, the groovy texture, and the fact that it sits on your head, I DEFINITELY would have named this pattern "Brain Coral".)
1) Under "Upper Front," delete "(Front is 6[6, 8, 8, 10, 10] rows shorter than Back to shoulder)"; second sentence should read only: "Work in patt until chart Row 76[82, 88, 76, 84, 68] is complete."
2) Change heading "Shape Right Shoulder" to "Shape Right Front Neck and Shoulder."
3) Change heading "Shape Left Shoulder" to "Shape Left Front Neck and Shoulder."
4) Under "Join Shoulders" 2nd sentence should read, "With right sides facing each other and wrong sides facing out...."
5) On Body Chart Left, 29th st from left-hand side of chart in rows 97, 98 & 99 should be p on RS/k on WS; on Body Chart Right, 29th st from right-hand side of chart in rows 97, 98 & 99 should be p on RS/k on WS. (Chart errors have been corrected on pdf version of charts.)
6) Sleeve charts and written instructions give conflicting directions: the written instructions say that the first row is a WS row (which it is) while the chart shows the first sleeve row as a RS row. In addition, if following the Sleeve charts, you would begin sleeve decreases before all of the underarm stitches are picked up. To remedy this:
Use the row just BELOW the colored line for your size as the first sleeve row. This is a WS or even-numbered row.
For sizes 2 and 4, proceed with sleeve shaping decreases as shown on charts. For sizes 6-8 and up, begin sleeve decreases 2 chart rows AFTER first decrease shown on Sleeve charts; this will allow enough rows to finish picking up underarm stitches before starting sleeve shaping. Proceed with decreases as shown on charts. Don't worry, you have plenty of room to complete sleeve shaping decreases: for all sizes you will need to work at least 8 rows even after completing charted sleeve rows, to reach standard sleeve lengths.
Charts A and B are reversed; Chart B should be used first, followed by Chart A.
After completing Chart C or Chart D, the number of stitches per repeat will be decreased; this is not indicated on the charts.
Chart C (used for Size S only): After Row 5, stitch count decreased to 14, with 8 knit sts between k2tog and ssk; after Row 7, stitch count decreased to 12, with 8 knit sts between k2tog and ssk; after Row 9, stitch count decreased to 10. Chart D (used for Sizes M, L and XL): After Row 3, stitch count dereased to 15, with 7 knit sts between k2tog and ssk; after Row 7, stitch count decreased to 13, with 9 knit sts between k2tog and ssk; after Row 9, stitch count decreased to 11.
For a corrected PDF of all charts (labeled correctly to correspond to written instructions), email me: knititudeATgmailDOTcom.