I hadn't heard from many knitters about errors in my patterns, and so I have to admit I was feeling rather smug about my proofreading and tech editing abilities. As it turns out, what probably was happening was that many knitters purchased one of my patterns, and then after some period of time-- finding the right yarn, finishing up other projects, etc.-- actually started knitting from it! Whatever the reason(s), in the last few months I've been notified of errata for the Dragon-Skin Wrap, Wyvern Wrap, Fern Fitted Shell, and now the Sorelle Pullover.
Optional short row bust shaping: the directions instruct you to work two rows to pick up all wraps, which would leave a couple of holes on either side of the shaped area. Instead, after wrapping 4 sts on each side (8 rows), work 1 rnd (you should be on the RS), picking up all wraps and knitting them tog with wrapped sts. Rep entire short row section once for D cup and twice for DD cup. Because you add a rnd for each set of short rows worked (when you pick up the wrapped sts), subtract 1 (2, 3) rnds for C (D, DD) cup from # of rnds in next section (after completion of short rows and before dividing for front and back).
Patterns purchased after January 5th, 2010 include this correction as well as corrections below. Patterns after March 11th, 2008 but before 1/5/10 include only the corrections listed below.
The first row of armhole shaping instructions is actually put under the heading "FRONT". The first sentence after "FRONT" should read "...k to 5 (NOT 3) sts before right side marker, ssk, SSE". Under "Armhole shaping" (subheading of "FRONT"), the number of times to repeat the two armhole shaping rows is INCORRECT for some sizes: please substitute the following: Rep these 2 rows 0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6) times. Same paragraph: number of rows to work even after armhole shaping is incorrect for some sizes: should be 8 (10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 4) rows.
Under BACK: After joining yarn to work RS, begin armhole shaping to correspond to Front immediately; do not knit one row first.
If you purchased this pattern before any or all of the above corrections were made, and would like a corrected copy, please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
The pattern is finally available for purchase!I went into my photo archives to find the pictures I took when I finished knitting Fern, and couldn't believe it was back in February. Ah well, a few other things got in the way in the last almost-half year. Il modello e' finalmente disponibile per comprare (ma purtroppo non in Italiano--mi dispiace). Andavo nel mio archivio fotografico per trovare le fotografie che ho fatto quando finivo Fern, e non potrei credere che era in febbraio. Allora, alcune cose hanno intervenuto nel ultimo quasi mezz' anno.
Panels of Fern Pattern
lace (from the Mon Tricot 1500 stitch dictionary) form the side sections of
this fitted sleeveless top, and cause the hem to curve gracefully. Binding off and then picking up stitches just
below the bust creates an accent cord, above which gentle bust shaping (short
row shaping optional) and a scoop neckline create a flattering silhouette. The neck and hem are finished with an applied
I-cord edging, while the armholes are self-finished (see Pattern Notes).
DIFFICULTY Intermediate: skills used include reading chart, picking up
sts, three needle bindoff, attached I-cord.
MATERIALS Jo Sharp Desert Garden
Aran Cotton, 65% cotton, 35% microfiber, 60 yd/55 m per 50 gm ball, 7 (8, 9,
10, 11, 12, 12) balls. US size 8/5 mm circular
needle, 24-47” depending on selected size. US size 8/5 mm set of
double-pointed needles (dpns), for neck edging. Stitch holders, extra
needles or waste yarn; markers OPTIONAL: US size 8/5mm 16” circular needle for neck
edging. Adjust needle sizes if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
XS S M L 1X 2X 3X Bust 28 32 36 40 44 48 52
81 91 102 112 122 132
cm Underbust 24.5 28.5 32.5 36.5 40.5 44.5 48.5
inches 62 72 83 93 103 113 123
cm Hip 30 34 38 42 46 50 54 inches 76 86 97 107 117 127 137
cm Length 21.5 22 22.5 23 23.5 23.5 23.5
inches 55 56 57 58 60 60 60
in size S.
sts/22 rows to 4”/10 cm in st st; 28 sts to 5.5”/14 cm for Fern Pattern. Check gauge on blocked swatch.
PATTERN NOTES This
top is intended to fit closely; however, the lace panels are very stretchy, so
that even with zero ease, the fit is somewhat forgiving. In the pictured top, the length from bra band
to hem is 11-12 inches/28-30 cm (the hem curves slightly) for all sizes;
changes in overall length for different sizes all occur from the chest up. However, directions are also given for
lengthening the portion of the top below the bust by 2 inches/5 cm. Read through all instructions before
beginning, especially if you plan to change the length below the bust.
Note that in the pattern, unlike
the pictured top, the armholes are self-finished with Annie Modesitt’s
slipped stitch edge; this reduces rolling of these edges, as well as finishing
Click here to purchase!Included are
all written instructions, schematic, and Fern Pattern chart; after
purchase you will be emailed a link to download the pattern in pdf
I think Fern turned out pretty well! Fits nicely; like the neckline; like the hemline. I wasn't sure whether I wanted to block the Fern Pattern panels flat or not, but in the end I decided I like
the lace rippling a little, as it definitely wants to do. And I'm not sure that the sproinginess of this
particular cotton/microfiber yarn wouldn't make heavy blocking useless, anyway.
It's a good thing the upper part of a sweater front usually knits up quickly, because I've changed this one several times now. I find the neckline to be one area of a garment design that benefits from trial and error, no matter how much I might try to plan it out ahead of time.
At first, I tried decreasing along the sides to add further shape to the bust area, but I didn't like the way that looked, so I tried again without the decreases--much better. Then, it's always a little tricky to determine how much higher the neckline will be once the edge is finished. I was planning to use a narrow applied I-cord edge, so I decided my first attempt was a little too revealing, and ripped back far enough to add a few rows. In the picture, the edging has already been worked, but unfortunately I'm not done yet; the edging is rolling outward at the center front and back, and now I'm going to redo it, decreasing a few stitches in both areas, which will hopefully take care of the problem.
Here is a view of the side lace panel. I'm also going to add the applied I-cord edging to the hem. You can see from the neck edging that the I-cord has a softer look than the cord under the bust, not as crisply defined, but I think it looks good, and the method I used to create the cord under the bust would not have worked around the arms and neck, as it requires a level bound off edge.
Let me describe what you are seeing here: Fern from hem to bust, with the Fern Pattern panels on each side. I used decreases to shape the waist, and wanted this top to fit closely under the bust, so I decided to bind off at that point, to decrease the stretch of the fabric, and then pick up stitches along the bound-off edge and work up from there in stockinette, with some increases in the front to give shape to the bust. First I tried picking up stitches the normal way, in which case the corded edge under the bust would have been on the inside, but I then I thought that it might actually look nice (and be more comfortable) with the cord on the outside. (And then an applied I-cord edge around the neck and arms, hmmm?)
Fern is at the stage where I'm not sure how much of her will stay and how much will go; an obvious (in hindsight!) result of the curve of the lace panels at the hem is that they also curve at the top--a curve which may or may not look odd. I'll probably need to try blocking and see what happens.
My stitches are usually more even than this; I think the reason may be that the Jo Sharp Desert Garden Aran Cotton has a lot of twist and sometimes kinks up on itself. I've been trying to let it untwist but it's a constant (and losing) battle.
Mi permetti discrivere questa camicia: Fern dal orlo al busto, con i pannelli di "Fern Pattern a ogni lato. Ho usato le diminuzione per formare la cintura, e volevo che questa camicia va bene sotto il busto. Mi dispiace, ma non so come si dice "bind off," "pick up stitches," o "stockinette" in Italiano.
Non so quanto di Fern restara` and quanto andra`; con il senno di poi, e ovvio che i pannelli vedrono magari strani. Dovro` provare "blocking" e vedo che e` succedera`.
(Oy vey, I think I really might have butchered the language in those last two sentences.)
Here's the Fern Pattern swatch I mentioned earlier; the double decreases on each side cause a very strong curve to the stitch pattern, which is in fact why I chose to use it. I decided it would give an interesting and flattering shape to the garment: used along the sides, it will create a curved hem, front and back.
Not that you can see it very well in the photo above, but hopefully the shape will become more obvious after a little more knitting.
Here is the swatch for the Traveling Leaf pattern from my last post. Do you recognize it? It looks somewhat different than the book version, I think because the needles are smaller in relation to the yarn gauge. Still pretty...but I'm not going to use it for this project.
Ecco, "Traveling Leaf"; lo conosci? E diverso che il foto nel libro, ma ancora bello. (Come si dice "swatch" in Italiano?) Ma non lo usaro` per questo progetto. I love this stitch pattern! Love it. Although I didn't love the asymmetry of the central double decreases, and started experimenting midway; I think the decrease direction either needs to be alternated, or changed to a vertical double decrease, where the center stitch is on top.I'm not going to use it for this project, but I already have other plans for another sweater using it, along with the perfect name: "Sorelle," the Italian word for "sisters," since the pattern stitch is "Four Sisters."
Amo questo disegno! Ma non amo la mancanza della simmetria nelle diminuzione; io faro` un po` diverso. Usaro` questo per un' altro progetto; chiamaro` "Sorelle," perche il disegno e chiamato "le quattro sorelle." Perfetto, non e' vero?
As for the Fan Shell pattern, I decided it had a little too much openwork for my purposes. Here is the stitch pattern I chose; next time, the swatch and perhaps, a little progress!
Ho deciso che "Fan Shell"...non so, come si dice "openwork" in Italiano. Ecco, il disegno ho scelto; la prossima volta, magari un po` di progresso!