Knititude

Greenville Tank

The Greenville Tank, one of the 21 designs in my new book Knitted Tanks and Tunics, has three unusual features, all of which combine to create a top with a very flattering fit. The first feature is the corded accent under the bust, which is created by binding off all of the body stitches, and then picking them up again, but from the wrong side, leaving the bound off edge visible on the right side of the fabric.

The second feature is the way the corded accent curves up at the sides; this was achieved by using short rows to shape the bust area, but also was a result of the natural shape of the side lace panels.

And the side lace panels are the third unusual feature, by virtue of their placement and also the effect that the lace pattern has on the tank's shaping. Like most lace knitting, the pattern combines increases (yarnovers) and decreases to create decorative holes while keeping the stitch count the same; in this pattern, the increases are clustered near the center, and the decreases all occur at the outer edges, which causes the rows to appear to angle outward from the panel center. This also creates parallel curves at the bottom and top of the panel; the bottom curve shapes the hem into two shallow points over the hipbones (best shown in the above photo).

The lace pattern looks to me like sprays of flowers...and also like fern fronds, which is why I named an earlier version of this design the Fern Fitted Shell. The contract for this book stipulated that I could include up to five previously published patterns, and I decided to include three (Fern, the Katama/Sayre Tank, and the Madaket/Sedalia Tank). In the case of the other two, I made no significant changes to the design.

But in the case of Fern, I had never liked the way the top curve caused by lace pattern created some loose fabric at the top of the panel (see above photo), so for Greenville, I experimented with ways to fix this, and found that adding short row shaping did the trick.

I also chose a different yarn for Greenville: Cascade Yarns Avalon, a 50/50 blend of cotton and acrylic. It's cable-plied, which gives it a bit of surface texture and makes it wonderfully resistant to splitting. It's machine washable (and dryable, but for the lace in Greenville to look good, it has be to be blocked and dried flat). It's not as heavy as 100% cotton yarn would be, and keeps its shape better. And it comes in a wide range of colors; I love a nice off-white, but if I made myself another Greenville, I would probably choose Dark Denim (a steely gray-blue) or Fawn (greige).

(First three photos copyright Tom Moore Studios)

My first photo shoot!

I'm going to put off the follow-up to last week's post (on making good yarn choices while learning new knitting techniques), because a couple of days ago I went to my first photo shoot! It was for my book of patterns for knitted sleeveless tanks and tunics, which is scheduled for publication by Stackpole Books in spring of 2018. It took place in the charming town of Beacon, NY, along the Hudson River.

The photographer, Tom Moore*, was very nice about letting me tag along, but due to scheduling issues, I missed the first day of the shoot. Luckily, his partner, Christine, was kind enough to text me some photos and videos of Tom at work, and also sent me a few proofs (stunning, aren't they??). 

Recognize the new and improved version of Fern, above? (My first thought when I saw this photo was "Get off the tracks, girl!" But I later found out that trains don't use this section of track anymore.)

Everything seemed to fit the model, Lexi, perfectly! I was very excited to head to Beacon for the second day of the shoot.

Here is one of my first views of the town, driving to our first location. It was a partially sunny day, but cool and windy.

Tom recruited me to help transport the samples, and we ended up staging the outfits out of my car; pictured are Christine, Tom's partner and stylist; Aleksandra, our model for the day; and Lois (in the baby carrier!). 

As you can see, Tom was willing to go to great lengths to get just the right angle! And I was glad that Tom told Aleks to hold onto that metal bar; she was rather close to the edge of the concrete slab in this shot.

Somehow Alexs managed to look like she was having a carefree stroll on a warm spring day; it's officially spring, yes, but I was wearing a sweater, down vest and scarf, and I was still cold!

She did put on her jacket and try to stay warm in between shots....

I hear that Campbell & Campbell Salon, in the background, is a great place to get your hair done....

But I can't vouch for Tony's rooms (as you can see, Beacon has a wide variety of settings and backgrounds).

Can't wait to post some proofs of the second day's work!

*Tom Moore Studios also did the photography for Sandi Rosner's book, 21 Crocheted Tanks and Tunics; when the Stackpole editor was trying to convince me that they understood the importance of great photos, she showed me some of his work for that book. 

Reader knit: Fern Fitted Shell

Many thanks to Terry for allowing me to post this great photo of a beautiful Fern!  (She used KnitPicks Shine and was very happy with the result.)

Deflating the ol' ego

I hadn't heard from many knitters about errors in my patterns, and so I have to admit I was feeling rather smug about my proofreading and tech editing abilities.  As it turns out, what probably was happening was that many knitters purchased one of my patterns, and then after some period of time-- finding the right yarn, finishing up other projects, etc.-- actually started knitting from it!  Whatever the reason(s), in the last few months I've been notified of errata for the Dragon-Skin Wrap, Wyvern Wrap, Fern Fitted Shell, and now the Sorelle Pullover.

Ah well.  At least Interweave Knits has decided to add the Dragon-Skin Wrap to their patterns available for purchase (hope they fixed that chart before they republished it).

Errata for Fern Fitted Shell

Optional short row bust shaping:  the directions instruct you to work two rows to pick up all wraps, which would leave a couple of holes on either side of the shaped area.  Instead, after wrapping 4 sts on each side (8 rows), work 1 rnd (you should be on the RS), picking up all wraps and knitting them tog with wrapped sts.  Rep entire short row section once for D cup and twice for DD cup.  Because you add a rnd for each set of short rows worked (when you pick up the wrapped sts), subtract 1 (2, 3) rnds for C (D, DD) cup from # of rnds in next section (after completion of short rows and before dividing for front and back).  

Patterns purchased after January 5th, 2010 include this correction as well as corrections below.  Patterns after March 11th, 2008 but before 1/5/10 include only the corrections listed below.

The first row of armhole shaping instructions is actually put under the heading "FRONT". The first sentence after "FRONT" should read "...k to 5 (NOT 3) sts before right side marker, ssk, SSE". Under "Armhole shaping" (subheading of "FRONT"), the number of times to repeat the two armhole shaping rows is INCORRECT for some sizes: please substitute the following: Rep these 2 rows 0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6) times. Same paragraph: number of rows to work even after armhole shaping is incorrect for some sizes: should be 8 (10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 4) rows.

Under BACK: After joining yarn to work RS, begin armhole shaping to correspond to Front immediately; do not knit one row first.

If you purchased this pattern before any or all of the above corrections were made, and would like a corrected copy, please email me at [email protected].

Fern Fitted Shell

The pattern is finally available for purchase! I went into my photo archives to find the pictures I took when I finished knitting Fern, and couldn't believe it was back in February.  Ah well, a few other things got in the way in the last almost-half year.
 
Il modello e' finalmente disponibile per comprare (ma purtroppo non in Italiano--mi dispiace).  Andavo nel mio archivio fotografico per trovare le fotografie che ho fatto quando finivo Fern, e non potrei credere che era in febbraio.  Allora, alcune cose hanno intervenuto nel ultimo quasi mezz' anno.

Panels of Fern Pattern lace (from the Mon Tricot 1500 stitch dictionary) form the side sections of this fitted sleeveless top, and cause the hem to curve gracefully. Binding off and then picking up stitches just below the bust creates an accent cord, above which gentle bust shaping (short row shaping optional) and a scoop neckline create a flattering silhouette. The neck and hem are finished with an applied I-cord edging, while the armholes are self-finished (see Pattern Notes). 

DIFFICULTY
Intermediate: skills used include reading chart, picking up sts, three needle bindoff, attached I-cord. 

MATERIALS
Jo Sharp Desert Garden Aran Cotton, 65% cotton, 35% microfiber, 60 yd/55 m per 50 gm ball, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12)  balls.
US size 8/5 mm circular needle, 24-47” depending on selected size.
US size 8/5 mm set of double-pointed needles (dpns), for neck edging.
Stitch holders, extra needles or waste yarn; markers
OPTIONAL: US size 8/5mm 16” circular needle for neck edging.
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain correct gauge. 

SIZES & MEASUREMENTS

                    XS         S         M         L          1X        2X     3X
Bust             28         32        36        40        44        48      52 inches
                    71         81       91         102      112      122    132 cm
Underbust    24.5     28.5     32.5    36.5    40.5     44.5    48.5 inches
                    62         72       83       93        103     113     123 cm
Hip              30        34        38       42        46       50       54 inches
                    76        86       97        107      117     127     137 cm
Length         21.5     22        22.5     23       23.5    23.5    23.5 inches
                    55        56        57       58        60       60       60 cm
Shown in size S. 

GAUGE
16 sts/22 rows to 4”/10 cm in st st; 28 sts to 5.5”/14 cm for Fern Pattern. Check gauge on blocked swatch.

PATTERN NOTES
This top is intended to fit closely; however, the lace panels are very stretchy, so that even with zero ease, the fit is somewhat forgiving. In the pictured top, the length from bra band to hem is 11-12 inches/28-30 cm (the hem curves slightly) for all sizes; changes in overall length for different sizes all occur from the chest up. However, directions are also given for lengthening the portion of the top below the bust by 2 inches/5 cm. Read through all instructions before beginning, especially if you plan to change the length below the bust. 

Note that in the pattern, unlike the pictured top, the armholes are self-finished with Annie Modesitt’s slipped stitch edge; this reduces rolling of these edges, as well as finishing time.

Click here to purchase!  Included are all written instructions, schematic, and Fern Pattern chart; after purchase you will be emailed a link to download the pattern in pdf format.

Presenting Fern

I think Fern turned out pretty well!  Fits nicely; like the neckline; like the hemline.  I wasn't sure whether I wanted to block the Fern Pattern panels flat or not, but in the end I decided I like the lace rippling a little, as it definitely wants to do.  And I'm not sure that the sproinginess of this particular cotton/microfiber yarn wouldn't make heavy blocking useless, anyway.

Pattern coming soon!

Fern, almost finished

It's a good thing the upper part of a sweater front usually knits up quickly, because I've changed this one several times now.  I find the neckline to be one area of a garment design that benefits from trial and error, no matter how much I might try to plan it out ahead of time.

At first, I tried decreasing along the sides to add further shape to the bust area, but I didn't like the way that looked, so I tried again without the decreases--much better.  Then, it's always a little tricky to determine how much higher the neckline will be once the edge is finished.  I was planning to use a narrow applied I-cord edge, so I decided my first attempt was a little too revealing, and ripped back far enough to add a few rows.  In the picture, the edging has already been worked, but unfortunately I'm not done yet; the edging is rolling outward at the center front and back, and now I'm going to redo it, decreasing a few stitches in both areas, which will hopefully take care of the problem.

Here is a view of the side lace panel.  I'm also going to add the applied I-cord edging to the hem.  You can see from the neck edging that the I-cord has a softer look than the cord under the bust, not as crisply defined, but I think it looks good, and the method I used to create the cord under the bust would not have worked around the arms and neck, as it requires a level bound off edge.

Will she stay or will she go?

Let me describe what you are seeing here:  Fern from hem to bust, with the Fern Pattern panels on each side.  I used decreases  to shape the waist, and wanted this top to fit closely under the bust, so I decided to bind off at that point, to decrease the stretch of the fabric, and then pick up stitches along the bound-off edge and work up from there in stockinette, with some increases in the front to give shape to the bust.  First I tried picking up stitches the normal way, in which case the corded edge under the bust would have been on the inside, but I then I thought that it might actually look nice (and be more comfortable) with the cord on the outside.  (And then an applied I-cord edge around the neck and arms, hmmm?)

Fern is at the stage where I'm not sure how much of her will stay and how much will go; an obvious (in hindsight!) result of the curve of the lace panels at the hem is that they also curve at the top--a curve which may or may not look odd.  I'll probably need to try blocking and see what happens. 

My stitches are usually more even than this; I think the reason may be that the Jo Sharp Desert Garden Aran Cotton has a lot of twist and sometimes kinks up on itself.  I've been trying to let it untwist but it's a constant (and losing) battle.

Mi permetti discrivere questa camicia:  Fern dal orlo al busto, con i pannelli di "Fern Pattern a ogni lato.  Ho usato le diminuzione per formare la cintura, e volevo che questa camicia va bene sotto il busto.  Mi dispiace, ma non so come si dice "bind off," "pick up stitches," o "stockinette" in Italiano. 

Non so quanto di Fern restara` and quanto andra`; con il senno di poi, e ovvio che i pannelli vedrono magari strani.  Dovro` provare "blocking" e vedo che e` succedera`.  

(Oy vey, I think I really might have butchered the language in those last two sentences.)

The beginnings of Fern

Here's the Fern Pattern swatch I mentioned earlier; the double decreases on each side cause a very strong curve to the stitch pattern, which is in fact why I chose to use it.  I decided it would give an interesting and flattering shape to the garment:  used along the sides, it will create a curved hem, front and back. 

Not that you can see it very well in the photo above, but hopefully the shape will become more obvious after a little more knitting.

Sorry, no Italian today; la prossima volta!