Knititude

Hat craze

I've never been a sock knitter; my small projects of preference are hats and baby knits.  And fall, of course, is a fine time to think about hat knitting (and thus for designers, a fine time to think about creating some hat patterns).  I had noted the stitch pattern at left (from the Japanese book Knitting Patterns Book 250) back in the spring, and it struck me as something that could be adapted into an interesting hat.  I went so far as to work on adapting the leaf motif to fit within the limited number of rows possible on a hat (deciding on a sport weight yarn to get a few more rows in) and charting the crown decreases, and then shelved that project over the summer to work on other things.

 Non sono stata mai una maglierista dei calzini; i miei progetti piccoli preferiti sono i cappelli e le maglie dei bambini.   Certo che l'autunno e un bel periodo per pensare di lavorare a maglia dei cappelli!  Ho visto quello disegno (dal libro giapponese Knitting Patterns Book 250) nella primavera, e pensavo di usarlo per un cappello.

I went back to that hat project last week, but after a bit of swatching, I wasn't happy with the result, and returned to my Japanese stitch pattern books for more inspiration.  I found the second stitch pattern in the same book as the first, and the final one in the book Knitting Patterns Book 300.  I imagined using the second one in a top-down design, so I then started figuring out a series of crown increases that would segue nicely into the main stitch pattern. 

Sono ritornata la settimana scorsa a quello progetto del cappello; pero', dopo un po' di swatching, non ero contenta, e sono tornata ai miei libri di modelli giapponesi per l'inspirazione.   Ho trovato il  disegno secondo nello stesso libro come il primo, e l'ultimo nel libro Knitting Patterns Book 300.  Ho immaginato di usare il secondo in un modello top-down, quindi ho cominciato di calcolare gli aumenti,  i quali progredirebbero nel disegno proprio. 

This turned out to be a several-days-long process!  More on that later.
Diventava un processo di parecchi giorni!  Piu a piu tardi.

Yarn substitutions for Aran Wrap

I've had several questions on this topic, so I've decided to list a number of yarn substitutions for the Trendsetter Journey yarn which was used for my Aran Wrap in Vogue Knitting Fall 2008.   This is a lovely, 100% alpaca yarn in beautiful heathered colors, but it does have the disadvantage of being quite heavy.  I'm not talking about heavy as in yarn thickness, i.e. heavy worsted (which this yarn is, at a ball band gauge of 16 sts to 4"), but heavy as in just plain heavy, at only 55 yards to 50 grams.  The construction and fit of the Aran Wrap means that it is really just a large rectangle of knitted fabric with sleeves, and the fronts either fall in folds or are overlapped.  While this makes it a cozy layer on an autumn day, it also makes it potentially quite weighty.

When I swatched for this design, I actually used a worsted weight wool (Classic Elite Skye Tweed, if anyone is curious), but the VK editors chose to substitute a heavier (in both senses of the word) yarn.  Personally, with careful swatching, I think one could go back to a medium worsted weight yarn, meaning a gauge of 17-19 sts to 4"-- but I'm not going to get into making recommendations for that here.

So here are some possibilities which have the same (or very nearly so) ball band gauge as the Journey.  I've listed all of their weights per 50 grams to make them easy to compare, but if they are supplied in different sized skeins, the actual skein yardage and weight is also noted.

Adrienne Vittadini Trina, a merino wool/ microfiber/cashmere blend, 71 yds/50 gms.  I'm currently using this for another project and like it a lot; I've had to frog small sections a couple of times and resurrect some of it once, and it has held up well.  Shows stitches very nicely.
Valley Yarns Berkshire, 85% wool/15% alpaca, 71 yds/50 gm (141 yds/100 gms).
Reynolds Candide, 100% wool, approx 86 yds/50 gm (170 yds/3.5oz).
Berroco Peruvia, 100% wool, 87 yds/50 gm (174 yds/100 gm).
Cascade Eco Wool, 96 yds/50 gm (478 yds/250 gm).
And the lightest heavy worsted of them all:  GGH/Rebecca Bel Air, 90% merino wool/10% nylon, at a whopping 143 yds/50 gm!  Produced using "new spinning technology!!"  If anyone uses this, I'd be very curious to see how it turns out; for a project like this, it certainly sounds good in theory.

Seaside Gloves

If you’re like many knitters, during the height of summer you may find yourself impatient for the brisk days of fall and even winter, when you can pull out those woollen items created with long hours of pleasant labor.  And yet-- human nature being what it is-- during those wintry periods, even knitters may find themselves remembering with longing those lazy hours on the beach in July or August:  the penetrating heat of the sand, the glints of light off the water, the cooling salt spray flying off the crests of the waves.  That’s why these gloves are a perfect anytime project:  during the warmer months, they’ll augur frosty days to come, and once those days arrive, the wavy stitches, deep ocean teal and crystal bead droplets will remind you of those carefree seaside afternoons.

Sizes
Women’s S-M (M-L)
Circumference (unstretched):  7”/18 cm (8”/20.5 cm); to fit hand circumference of 7-8”/18-20.5 cm (8-9”/20.5-23 cm)
Length:  10”/25.5 cm (11”/28 cm)

Difficulty
Intermediate knitter/beginning beader; skills required include reading chart and working in the round.

Materials
Alchemy Yarns Synchronicity (50% silk, 50% wool; 118 yds/108 m per 50 g skein); 30W: Spruce; 2 (2) skeins.
Size S-M:  1 set US #5/3.75 mm double-point needles OR size to obtain gauge
Size M-L:  1 set US #7/4.5 mm double-point needles OR size to obtain gauge
tapestry needle; waste yarn or stitch holders
bead needle for threading beads (I used The Big “Eye”)
Clear glass beads, size 6/0 (4 mm), 52

Suggested Yarn Substitutes
Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Superwash or Karabella Aurora 8

Gauge
Size S-M:  24 sts/ 32 rows measured over 10cm (4 inches) in stockinette stitch (st st)
Size M-L:  21 sts/ 28 rows measured over 10cm (4 inches) in st st

Pattern Notes
See attached charts.  The original stitch pattern (“Seaweed” from Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns) is used for the left glove only, while the pattern for the right glove is its mirror image.

Both left and right gloves are fully charted to show the position of beads and construction of thumb gusset and fingers.  Directions are the same for S-M and M-L; altering gauge by using different size needles results in two finished sizes.  Follow written directions as well as charts!  Picked up and knit on stitches for upper hand and fingers are not shown on charts, but are worked following chart for stitches adjacent to each part.   

Thread beads onto yarn before casting on, pushing beads down along yarn until they are needed.  Beads actually sit between 2 purl stitches; to place bead, purl first stitch, push bead into place, and purl second stitch.

Click here to purchase pattern pdf ($3.50)!  Includes written directions, photos and full charts for both hands.  By the way, if your fingertips prefer to be covered, instead of binding off each glove finger, just continue the stitch pattern as established until each finger is slightly longer than your own, and then do not bind off:  instead break the yarn, thread it through all stitches, pull to close, and then fasten on the inside of the finger. 

The Invasion of the Tomas Swatches

With each of my last few projects, the number of swatches I have done has steadily increased (I hope this trend doesn't continue!).  I've done multiple swatches for different reasons; for my project for an upcoming issue of Vogue Knitting, it was to find different stitch patterns that played well together, while for Etrusca, it was to find an assortment of yarns in different gauges that could be substituted for the Karabella Empire Silk I used-- and to choose among several stitch patterns.  The swatches pictured here are for the next project I hope to turn into a pattern for sale:  a top-down* (my first!!) raglan pullover using Tilli Tomas Fil de la Mer, a lovely, lovely yarn.  By the way, I'm NOT planning to incorporate all of these stitch patterns into one garment.

On a COMPLETELY different topic, I read in some trashy magazine at the gym that various actresses have "girl crushes" on Angelina Jolie, and I thought, "Hmm.  To each her own, I guess."  Then I wondered who my girl crush would be, and having recently seen A Bridge to Terabithia, Zooey Deschanel came to mind.  Then I saw this article about her recent CD release; in the article she is called a "crafty girl" who knits and crochets.  OK, found my girl crush.  Who's yours?!

*Knitting From the Top by Barbara Walker is a great book, but I kinda wish they'd update that cover photo.

Etrusca Sleeveless Top

The intricate ornamentation of ancient Etruscan jewelry was the inspiration for this top, in which a lustrous gold-colored yarn and the varied surfaces of garter stitch, a simple lace border, and slipped stitches combine to create a richly textured fabric.

To keep the border stitch pattern complete, no partial repeats were used, limiting the number of sizes to four; to fit a wider range of measurements, dimensions are given below for these sizes worked in four different yarn gauges, and a number of yarn substitutions are suggested (some of which I have swatched).  Knitting progress is given both in inches and in rows, so that a yarn of a different gauge than that pictured can be easily substituted.  Note that if yarn is substituted, yarn requirements are a rough guide only! 

The pictured top has staggered waist decreases and increases; all slipped stitch columns curve slightly in and then out at the waist.  But since the decreases and increases show slightly (look closely at photos), directions are also given for working all waist shaping at the sides only, if desired.  Front and back are worked flat to take advantage of the garter stitch base (knit every row!).

DIFFICULTY
Intermediate:  skills include reading chart, increases/decreases, three needle bindoff, and picking up stitches for neckband and armhole trim.

GAUGE
20 sts/26 rows to 4” in st st; 19 sts/30 rows to 4” in EG (Embellished Garter) and charted lace patterns.  EG and lace patt row gauges are different from that of st st (st st gauge given mainly to make yarn substitution easier); to calculate garment length you will need your EG row gauge.  Check gauge on blocked swatch.

SIZES & MEASUREMENTS for gauges 21 (20, 19, 18) sts to 4” in EG patt.
Note that sizes S-XL do NOT necessarily correspond to the sizes given in the CYC standards.  Bold #s are for gauge as given above; if only one # appears, it applies to all gauges.
                         S                              M                               L                           XL       
Bust/  31 (32½, 34, 36)       37 (39, 41, 43)        43 (45, 47½, 50)        49 (51 ½, 54½, 57)”             
Hem      79 (83, 86, 91)     94 (99, 104, 109)    109 (114, 121, 127)     124 (131, 138, 145)cm
Waist  27 (28½, 30, 31½)    33 (35, 36½, 38 )     39 (41, 43½, 45 ½)     45 ½ (47½, 50, 53)”
             69 (72, 76, 80)         84 (89, 93, 98)      99 (104, 110, 116)     116 (121, 127, 135)cm
Length             20                                 21                                22                            23”
                       51                                 53                                56                           58 cm
Armhole depth 5½                                6                                6½                            7”
(approx)          14                                15                                17                           18 cm
Armhole circ    14                                15½                             17                           19”
(approx)           36                                39                                43                          48 cm
Shown in size S and gauge 19 sts/4”, with bust circumference of 34” and 1” ease.

The top is shown with a deep scooped neck in front and medium scooped neck in back:  it can also be worn backwards, OR worked as two “fronts” or two “backs.”

MATERIALS
Karabella Empire Silk (100% silk), color 504 deep gold, 6 (7, 9, 10) skeins, or 540 (630, 810, 900) yds.
US size 7/4.5 mm circular needle, 24” US size 7/4.5 mm straight knitting needles.  Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Stitch holders, tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN SUBSTITUTIONS
(Same gauge/needle size as above):
Berroco Touche’ (cotton/rayon), suggested color 7912 Dijon; Classic Elite Premiere (cotton/Tencel), suggested color 6212 Mimosa.

FOR OTHER GAUGES:
Tilli Tomas Fil de la Mer (silk/seacell) on US size 6 needles for 21 sts to 4” in EG patt, suggested color Goldenrod; Berroco Touche’ on US size 8 needles for 18 sts to 4” in EG patt.

Or try these (not swatched by me):
Louet Euroflax on US size 5-7 for 18-22 sts to 4” in st st, color Mustard; Berroco Ultra Silk (rayon/nylon/silk) on US size 10 for 19 sts to 4” in st st, suggested color 6113 Dijon.

Click here to purchase pattern pdf!  Includes all written instructions, chart, schematic and photos.

Garter go!

Garter stitch isn't normally my favorite, its intriguing characteristics* notwithstanding.  But I also prefer knitting to purling, so I started to think about designing a tank top using garter stitch, worked in pieces to take advantage of that nice Knit-Every-Row quality. 

What about garter stitch as a background to set off other stitches?  Nothing too complicated, or it might mess with the ease and speed of Knit-Every-Row.  Perhaps...a border of some coordinating stitch pattern, and then columns of slipped stitches to play off the garter's texture.

I came up with a few possibilities.  I swatched.  I want to use a discontinued yarn for this project (Karabella Empire Silk in an incredibly rich gold, shown in the lower left corner of the 2nd photo), so I came up with the idea of writing up the pattern for different gauges--and so I swatched a few other yarns just for gauge.  Clockwise from upper right:  Tilli Tomas Fil de la Mer, Berroco Touche', Classic Elite Premiere, the Empire Silk, and RYC Cashsoft DK.

*It doesn't curl.  It's reversible.  It can be worked with knit stitches only.  The row gauge is twice the stitch gauge, making things like mitered constructions and picking up stitches along the side edges quite simple.

Selva Skirt Backstory Part III

To be quite honest, the Hearts of Oak pattern is not the speediest knit around, especially when worked on US #3 needles.  The unblocked fabric is fun to look at in different lights, and its almost crunchy texture invites you to grasp a handful and squeeze-- but even so, it seemed to me that I knitted endlessly on Selva before finally reaching the point where it was time to start the waist decreases.

I had swatched the "ribbon" stitch pattern I used for the top of the skirt, and measured the swatch stretched to determine whether a zipper was necessary:  I decided no.  As I progressed toward the waistband, decreasing steadily in the plain purl sections at the sides, I instead started to worry that the waistband would stretch out of shape:  the "ribbons" weren't quite as firm as I had hoped, and of course the reverse stockinette wasn't firm at all.  That's why I decided to add the elastic to the waistband.

In the case of this pattern, the sizing was dictated by the stitch pattern:  the difference between sizes is two repeats or 20 stitches (or 2 1/2 inches) at the hips.  Having said that, it is easy to change the frequency and number of waist decreases to customize the fit for a larger or smaller waist in relation to hips.

Filatura di Crosa "Zara" is a great choice of yarn for this skirt; it has tight twist, lots of resilience, and seems to be fairly durable (standing up well to frogging).  It also comes in an extensive palette of colors.  If another yarn is substituted, I would encourage using something with similar characteristics.  A quick glance at yarndex suggested these as possibilities (note that I have no personal experience with any of them):  Jaeger Matchmaker Merino DK or Extrafine Merino DK; Dale of Norway Falk; Classic Elite Classic 150; Debbie Bliss Rialto DK; Louet Gems Opal; or Knit Picks Merino Style.  Note that for most of these (as for Zara), the suggested needle size is larger than US #3, and the gauge thus looser than the 6 sts to the inch I got in stockinette stitch with #3s.  SWATCH!

Selva Skirt Backstory Part II

I always planned to work Selva in the round, especially since I had not originally included a slit.  Since the skirt was quite fitted, I realized this would require that it be above knee length; but after calling to tell me that Interweave wanted to use the design, Eunny Jang, the editor, told me she thought it might require both a slit and a zipper closure.  This got me wondering whether I should work the skirt flat and then seam it up the back, thus easily allowing for a slit and a zipper-- but I decided against this, mainly because I thought it would be significantly slower knitting.

A bit of good news:  Eunny wanted me to use Filatura di Crosa Zara, the exact same yarn I had used for the swatch (very unusual, in my experience!).  Unfortunately, not expecting this, I hadn't bothered to take any notes on the gauge of the Hearts of Oak swatch I had sent to Interweave, so as soon as the yarn arrived in the mail, I swatched again.  After blocking, the swatch seemed a little too loose to me, so I did another one on smaller needles, and decided to use the smaller needles for the skirt to get a slightly denser fabric (trying not to calculate how many extra stitches I would have to knit to finish the thing!).

My 2 cents on swatches:  I've decided that patterns which include stitch patterns other than stockinette stitch should give gauges both in stockinette stitch, to make it easier to find substitute yarns, AND in one or more of the pattern stitches used in the design, since working cables or lace or garter stitch, or whatever, might cause changes in yarn tension among different knitters.  In future all my patterns will include at least two gauges (I can't imagine myself creating a design using only stockinette!).

Back to Selva:  First, I decided I didn't want to have a facing around the slit; this meant that I would have to find a way to make the edge of the knit fabric itself look finished.  With no facings (meaning that working in the round and then steeking was not an option), the skirt would have to be worked back and forth for the length of the slit, and then joined to work the rest in the round.  After some experimenting I came up with a modification of the Hearts of Oak pattern which looked adequately finished at the edges; I also found that having a 2-stitch stockinette edge was important, to keep the edge fairly straight.   I started knitting, only to realize after several inches that I had no idea whether the Hearts of Oak pattern worked on circular needles would show a jog at the beginning of each round!  At this point, I just kept my fingers crossed until the skirt was about 7 inches long, joined for working in the round, and...no jog whatsoever!  In fact, I found that the increases and decreases in the stitch pattern caused the beginning of the round to move in and out along the edges of the "overlapping scales" (as described by Interweave), which is why I set up the chart for rounds (at left) the way I did.

Next and final post on Selva:  waistband issues and sizing.

Sorelle Lace-Edged Pullover

 Pattern now available for purchase!

Worked mainly in the round, with a split lace hem at the bottom edges of body and 3/4 length sleeves, the focal points of this raglan-sleeved pullover (besides the lace edgings) are the Four Sisters lace pattern on the sleeves, and the twist stitch columns which help shape and define the waist.  The worsted-weight yarn works up quickly on US size 8 needles.  (I used a cotton blend, but now that it's October, I've been eyeing one of the many lovely wool/silk yarns for a cool weather/holiday version:  S. Charles Collezione Dynasty, perhaps, or Tahki Savoy, or Cascade Venezia Cascade Venezia Worsted (oops!), or Knitpicks Andean Silk (alpaca, silk, wool), or Lorna's Laces Lion & Lamb, or Noro Cash Iroha (silk, wool, cashmere, & nylon, or Plymouth Royal Silk Merino--just be sure to check your gauge extra-carefully and adjust needle size if necessary, if you use a different yarn!....)  The lace split hems of the body and sleeves are worked back and forth, then joined to work the remainder of body and sleeves (to the bottom of armholes) in the round.  Directions are also given for working non-split lace hems, in the round.  To taper the neckband slightly while continuing the lace pattern, you will change to a US size 7 and then a US size 6 needle.

DIFFICULTY
Intermediate:  skills used include lace knitting, reading chart, picking up sts for neckband.
GAUGE
18 sts/22 rows to 4” in st st; approx 17 sts to 4” (21 sts to 5”) in Bead Stitch patt.  Check gauge on blocked swatch. 
MATERIALS
Berroco Touche’, 50% cotton/50% Rayon, 89 yds/82 m per 50 gm skein, color #7930, 8 [8, 9, 10 ,11, 12, 12, 13] skeins.
US size 8/5 mm circular needle, 24-47” depending on selected size. 
US size 8/5 mm double pointed (dp) needles, one set, for sleeves.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
US size 7/4.5 mm circular needle, 16-24”, for lace neckband.
US size 6/4 mm circular needle, 16-24”, for lace neckband.
Stitch holders, extra needles or waste yarn

SIZES & MEASUREMENTS (Note that there is both a size XL and a size 1X.)
                            XS     S      M      L      XL      1X    2X    3X
Bust                     32     35    38    41½   44½   48    51    54½ in
                           81     89    97    105    113   122   130   138 cm
Waist                   28     31    34    37½   40½   44   47     50½ in
                           71      79    86    95     103   112  119   128 cm
Hip                      33      36    39    42½  45½   49   52     55½ in
                           84      91    99     108  116  124   132   141 cm
Length                19½    20    20½   21   21½  22    22     22 in
                           50     51     52     53    55    56    56     56 cm
Sleeve length       13½   13     13    14    14    14    14      14 in
                           34     34     33    36    36    36    36      36 cm
Upper arm circ     12    12½    13    14    15    16    16½   17 in
                          30     32      33    36    38    41    42      43 cm
Shown in size S.

Note:  After much consideration, I decided to charge $6.50 for this pattern; it turned out to be quite time-consuming to carry out all the calculations to make sure that the twist stitch columns were properly placed for all sizes, and that the lace hem and Four Sisters pattern and lace neckband all lined up correctly.  As always, I will gladly refund the purchase price if you are not completely happy with the pattern.

Click here to purchase!  Included are all written instructions, schematic, and Bead Stitch and Four Sisters charts; after purchase you will be emailed a link to download the pattern in pdf format.

Edited to add:  After a comment from a reader (thanks, Jocelyn!) I realized I had linked to Cascade Venezia, at a ball-band gauge of 3.5 sts/inch on U.S. #9 or 10 needles, instead of Cascade Venezia Worsted, at a gauge of 5 sts/inch on U.S. #7 needles.  While I was at it, I threw in a few more silk/wool blend yarn alternatives; of course other blends and fibers could also work.  (Worsted and aran weight yarns, by the way, are lumped together by the Craft Yarn Council of America in their Standard Yarn Weight System, and have a gauge of 4-5 sts/inch, although worsted is generally put on the lighter end, and aran on the heavier end, of that scale.)  All of the yarns above have ball band gauges of either 4.5 or 5 sts/inch on #7 or 8 needles, and although the tension achieved by different knitters, and therefore the gauge, can vary quite a bit, I felt that these weights should be close enough to get gauge for this sweater for most knitters, if necessary with a needle change of no more than one size up or down.  I should add that I personally have NOT yet used any of the above yarns; proceed at your own risk!

Silly mistake #486

Sometimes it seems to me that the entirety of a knitting life must involve careening from one knitterly mistake to the next.  Some are not so silly--a consequence of pushing the envelope of one's skills, trying a new technique or stitch; some are GALLING--how many times while following a pattern for something knit in the round have I read the admonition to join, taking care not to twist stitches?  And yet....

Well, last week's silly mistake was on the order of the latter.  I started a sleeveless child's frock using a variation of the Chinese Lace pullover I've been working on.  I had gone back and forth on which yarn to use:  Classic Elite's Provence in Japanese Lilac (also used for this project), at around 5 sts per inch, or diVe Cotone Egitto (which I'm using for the Chinese Lace pullover) in cream, at around 6 sts per inch?  I cast on 242 sts and worked for several inches before I realized that, while I had calculated the number of stitches for the Cotone Egitto, I had at the last minute decided to use the Provence--meaning this baby was going to be four or five inches too large in circumference.

If I had had a 6-year-old girl handy, I might have just kept going, but I only have a 3 1/2-year-old, and she (my lovely granddaughter*) is only visiting for another week.  Not wanting to start over, I decided instead to cut out 2 pattern repeats.  So on the next round I put the first 2 pattern repeats on some waste yarn.  I worked two more rounds, skipping the held stitches, and then, using sewing thread, I hand-stitched up and down the rows, a couple of stitches away from where I would cut out the extra piece, trying to make sure I caught all those slippery cotton strands.      

Did  I mention that this was my first steek?  Here it is after cutting; luckily, all of the strands held firmly.  I then seamed as I normally would, from the right side, and below is the result:  not bad, not bad at all.  Of course it's a different story when viewed from the wrong side, even though I trimmed the yarn ends as closely as I dared, and will flatten the seam forcefully when blocking. 

This episode did make me realize something:  while I'm happy to give the finished dress to my granddaughter, and chose the size so that it would fit her, it is first a pattern prototype, and second a gift.  If the gifting was the first priority, I would have taken a deep breath, frogged and started over.  Is that kind of sad?  I'm still trying to decide.

STILL coming soon--okay, realistically I have to say sometime in August--the pattern for the Chinese Lace pullover.

Ummm...in a moment of masochistic math geekiness, I just calculated the total number of stitches needed to make the sample for my pattern (due in September) for Big Girl Knits 2:  at 49 inches around and 22 inches long, with three-quarter length sleeves, at a ball band gauge (eep! I haven't even made a swatch yet!) of 23 sts/30 rows per 4 inches, or 43 1/8th sts per square inch, I got...58,908 3/4 stitches.  Dear Lord.  I feel faint.  Better make that August or September for Chinese Lace.   

*Vanity compels me to add that while I am, strictly speaking, old enough to be a grandmother, Caroline is the daughter of my husband's daughter from a previous marriage.